R. Parker (91/100)
The white 2019 Univers, a pure Palomino from 25-year-old vines, fermented in stainless steel, and they don't use Sherry butts (botas) or flor, trying to show naked wines from the variety and the soils. This is quite varietal, trying to achieve precision, finesse and cleanliness with little intervention and low sulfur, and perhaps it's more difficult in riper years. This still has a moderate 12.5% alcohol despite the year being very dry and the summer marked by the warm Levante winds, and the wine has a soft palate with volume and a sleek texture. I think this is the more varietal of the wines (save for the Moscatel one!) with intense spiciness in the shape of cloves and cumin. It matured for 11 months with lees.