The best Garnatxa Peluda in the world?
To begin with: “What is Garnatxa Peluda?”, many readers may wonder.
Everyone is of course familiar with classic Grenache (called “Garnatxa” in Catalan), but the “hairy” Grenache (a literal translation of “peluda”) remains largely unknown to many.
It is a natural mutation of the classic Garnatxa and is also very easy to recognise. The leaves have fine hairs on their underside, meaning they are literally “hairy”.
This allows the vine to be better protected against heat and drought.
In other words, the perfect defence against the warm and dry springs and summers that Catalonia has experienced in recent years.
Out of the total 2,100 hectares of vineyards in Priorat, only around 40 hectares are planted with Garnatxa Peluda today (more than 9 hectares of which belong to
Mas d’en Gil, which we will come back to later).
It is therefore one of the rarest grape varieties. Outside Priorat, it is scarcely found anywhere else in the world.
So then!
Which wine and which estate are we talking about exactly??
I am referring to “Les Manyes” by Terroir al Límit, one of my absolute favourites from the region.
This vineyard is located at an altitude of 800 metres, with vines that are over 60 years old, and yields of barely 2,000 kg per hectare.
It lies against the Sierra del Montsant, above the ruins of the Carthusian monastery of Scala Dei.
What makes it even more distinctive? The subsoil is not the typical llicorella or slate, but instead clay-rich soils with a high limestone content.
The combination of this limestone-rich soil, highly unusual for the region, and the heat-resistant Garnatxa Peluda results in the most refined and mineral-driven red wine of the Priorat region.
It also has the lowest alcohol level.
From the 2021 vintage onwards, Terroir al Límit has also chosen to abandon the use of oak for ageing.
Fermentation takes place with whole clusters. Ageing is carried out exclusively in concrete tanks, ensuring slow and precise maturation.
These are among the most refined and fresh red wines of the region.
“Ethereal” is, for me, the perfect word.
In 2016, Les Manyes already achieved a perfect score.
In the years that followed, it hardly dropped below that level.
A brief overview:
You’re absolutely right: this is not an inexpensive wine…
But when you consider where it comes from and how it is made… And above all, how it tastes and the ageing potential it offers, I would still encourage you to add a few bottles to your cellar.
Limited availability!