The New Gold from Valdeorras
The Story of Rafael Palacios and Valdeorras, the 'Golden Valley'
A meeting with Rafael is one to remember—he has the flair and confidence of his older brother Álvaro, combined with an unrelenting pursuit of perfection. Nothing is left to chance, and the precision he applies extends to his vineyards, his winery, and even his car. Despite having 350,000 km on the odometer, there isn’t a speck of dust to be found. The high mileage comes from countless trips back and forth to Rioja, where his home is. A scion of the renowned Palacios winemaking family, Rafael has found his muse in Valdeorras since 2004: the Godello grape. Un Riojano en Galicia.
Galicia
Galicia is one of Spain’s regions less frequented by tourists. Those who do venture here are rewarded with breathtaking landscapes, rugged Atlantic cliffs, mountains, hills, valleys, and, of course, vineyards. This is Atlantic Spain—cooler in climate, with higher rainfall, and therefore much greener. In this eastern part of Galicia, the Romans were the first to plant vines and also mined gold—hence ‘Valdeorras,’ the valley of gold.
Like much of Galicia, Valdeorras is a patchwork of small plots, known here as ‘sortes.’ These inheritance plots have been passed down from father to son and, over the centuries, have become increasingly fragmented. Rafael now cares for 28 different vineyards, and with great pride, he takes us on a journey through them. His search for the best terroir for Godello led him to the Val do Bibei o Bolo, where the high altitude and the poor, decomposed granite and quartz soil yield the best grapes. Organic viticulture has been the standard for years, and he is on the path toward biodynamic certification under the Demeter label.
Louro
We visit one of the vineyards that provides grapes for Louro, a younger planting with vines up to 35 years old. The plot forms a natural amphitheater facing the valley, and the cool breeze immediately demonstrates why this altitude makes such a difference. While winter and spring are distinctly Atlantic, summer here leans toward a Mediterranean climate, with cool nights preserving the wines’ vibrant acidity.
As Sortes
As Sortes is the wine that started it all in 2004, using only the best parcels with vines at least 35 years old. We hop in and out of the car, visiting the 'sortes' that make up this benchmark Godello wine. But Rafael also wants to show us his true gems: Sorte o Soro and Sorte Antiga.
Sorte o Soro and Sorte Antiga
These are the ‘grands crus’—the plots that consistently yield the finest fruit, the most refined expression, and the greatest depth. Sorte o Soro covers only 0.5 hectares, while Sorte Antiga spans just 0.23 hectares. Rafael has recently started releasing these as single-vineyard wines, but only in the very best years. Minuscule productions of the new gold from Valdeorras. Comparing them to other great white wines of the Old World would not do them justice—they are unique in style, which makes them so special. Hors catégorie.
Many of these 'sortes' are enclosed by walls, much like a clos. Rafael carefully secures them with fencing. Many fellow winemakers keep a close eye on everything he does. Cuttings from his top vineyards are taken to propagate elsewhere, and, just like in elite sports, his employees are approached with offers to change teams, carrying their knowledge with them. Rafael has become a victim of his own success in this region! Some of you may remember his entry-level wine, “Bolo.” This has been absent from the lineup for years, as it relied on purchased grapes. However, competition for these grapes drove prices so high that it became impossible for Rafael to continue producing it.
Our journey of discovery ends that day beside the grand cru plot of Sorte Antiga. We watch the sunset in silence, savoring the wines unfolding in our glasses and indulging in the best pulpo we’ve ever had. Oh yes—another reason to visit this region.