Merseguera, one of Spain’s most
unknown white grape varieties!
Some call it Spain’s “Condrieu”. Not without reason, as Merseguera also has those typical floral notes, but the main difference is the freshness, but also its ageing potential.
Toni Sarrión of Mustiguillo, the estate we are talking about here, has his vineyards at more than 900 metres of altitude in the inland area of Valencia. This terroir has far more continental influences than Mediterranean ones.
And that benefits the wine, as this is a white wine with considerable ageing potential and an unbeatable price-quality ratio.
What Toni has done with red Bobal, he has also done with Merseguera: as a pioneer, he has put these two grape varieties back on the wine map. Both wines also come entirely from organic vineyards.
Toni makes two great white wines from this Merseguera: his premier cru is the Finca Calvestra. And, on occasion, he produces his grand cru “Margas” from a single parcel within Finca Calvestra. The latter is always aged for at least three years in bottle at the estate before being released.
Both wines have recently arrived in their new vintages. Both Finca Calvestra and Margas are among our personal favourite white wines, especially given their price!
Finca Calvestra has become the benchmark for top Merseguera, while Margas gives the grape variety real gravitas. The Calvestra is also aged in acacia barrels, another unique choice through which Toni returns to the traditional way of making wine in this region.
With the arrival of the 2nd generation at the estate, his daughter Olga Sarrión, the pursuit of perfection has gone even further. The estate has recently obtained Demeter certification for biodynamic wine estates. A remarkable achievement in this region!
Robert Parker has noticed it too, as the new vintages have received their highest scores ever!
Finca Calvestra 2024: 93/100
"The pure Merseguera 2024 Finca Calvestra has strong herbal notes, hints of fennel and aniseed and an austere, mineral/rocky core. It fermented in used 225- and 500-liter acacia barrels and stainless steel tanks and matured in used 500-liter acacia barrels for four months, plus a further seven months in small stainless steel tanks. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.21 and 5.7 grams of acidity, meaning good ripeness, freshness and acidity, and it's tender and velvety."
Margas 2021: 95/100 "The white 2021 Finca Calvestra Margas was produced with Merseguera grapes from vines planted at 920 meters in altitude. It fermented in 500-liter acacia barrels, where it matured for 11 months, followed by one more year in stainless steel. It has 13.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.21 and six grams of acidity, with more freshness and acidity, reflecting the cooler year. It's pale and looks younger than it is, and it has an austere profile with a notable absence of fruit. It has herbal and mineral sensations, like a feeling of wet porcelain and chalk, and it finished with a faint bitter, salty and chalky twist. 1,416 bottles produced."