R. Parker (90/100)
The white 2017 Univers is pure Palomino from 20-year-old vines that are organically and biodynamically farmed in the La Platera vineyard in Pago Miraflores in Sanlúcar on albariza soils This is their entry-level Palomino from the California clone, from a single vineyard and bottled after nine months in contact with the lees, which represents quite well what they want to do: dry, unfortified whites that are fresh, salty and tasty, very different from what people are used to from Jerez. They do not really like fortified wines, but some are fermented in sherry casks, from which they might get some of the sherry character, but not this one. They do not want to call themselves "natural" or anything, but they try to do the wines in the most natural way possible without deviations, off aromas or volatility. This is clean and with a mixture of floral and fruit aromas, citrus hints and a yeasty twist. The palate is light and quite fresh (2017 was a very warm year), very tasty and long, and with the umami, almost salty, touch in the finish.