Tenerife
Johan Sterckx - 5 July 2026

On this island, the word complexity takes on a completely different, even more complex meaning. If you see what I mean.
The island and its volcanic origins
Seven million years ago, the island consisted of three separate parts created by volcanic eruptions. These form the beak, tail and belly of the duck. The soils in these three regions contain the oldest lava formations. Later eruptions created younger lava and basalt terroirs, shaping Tenerife as we know it today. Mount Teide is the central, still active crater. The most recent eruption on the island took place in 1908. Lava flows shaped the island and created its valleys, ridges and lagoons.

Garachico
Garachico was the most important of the three ports in the north. It was mainly used for exporting wine, particularly Malvasía wines made from grapes grown on lower-lying land.
Garachico looks very different today from how it did 300 years ago, when a volcanic eruption buried a large part of the port beneath the lava. This created the Garachico we see today, with many historic reminders of its former fortifications, promenade, lava pools now used as outdoor swimming pools, merchant houses and more.
Cultural and historical influences
Over the centuries, the island absorbed many cultural influences brought by travellers from around the world. It was also repeatedly attacked by other nations trying to take control of it. After several attempts, an agreement was reached with the English under which they would cease their repeated attacks on the island.
This had a major impact on exports. Until then, the English had handled a large share of Canary wine exports and had helped build their reputation, just as they did with wines from Jerez. They subsequently turned their attention to Port and Madeira, where their influence left a lasting mark.
Agriculture and economic change
Historically, Tenerife was a highly productive wine island, but the sector has undergone major upheaval. Banana plantations replaced vineyards along the coastline because bananas had become a more important and profitable export product. Hotels were also built along the northern coasts because they generated more income than labour-intensive viticulture.
Avocado production is now growing rapidly as well, but it is also contributing to water shortages in agriculture. Water is expensive and must be used with great care in both agriculture and viticulture.
Training systems and viticulture
Viticultural practices vary depending on where you are in the north of the island. The trenzado system was introduced by the Portuguese, while pergolas came from the Italians.
Trenzado is especially common in the Valle de Orotava. The shoots are trained towards either the south or the north, depending on air circulation within the vineyard. A trenzado can reach a length of up to 20 metres. The shoots are tied together to control the vine’s vigour.
Small pergolas are also used. In the south, they provide shade for the grape bunches. In the north, they improve air circulation and help prevent fungal diseases.
The south of the island
The south of the island has a very different soil composition. Winds from the Sahara, 400 kilometres away, carry sand that forms a top layer in Abona and Güímar. This area is also home to Vilaflor, the highest wine village, and to Europe’s highest vineyards.
Taganana
Taganana in the north is characterised by basalt and red basalt, steep slopes and vines that are trained and supported by stakes. After the harvest, the stakes are removed so the vines can lie on the ground.
This type of vineyard is extremely labour-intensive. Local people assist the winegrowers with the vineyard work to prevent these high-quality vineyards from disappearing. The plots are very difficult to reach and have gradients of 45% or more.

Valle de Orotava
Valle de Orotava is a broad valley formed by a melting layer of ice. It is slightly warmer and is divided into several subregions, including Palo Blanco. Within Palo Blanco lies Las Molinas, which is considered the grand cru terroir for Listán Blanco.
Ycoden-Daute-Isora
Ycoden-Daute-Isora takes its name from three subregions that were each once controlled by influential families. Each subregion was named after the family that owned it.
There are more pergola-trained vines here, as well as steep vineyards close to the sea and strongly influenced by it. The southernmost part is the warmest and includes the impressive El Palmar valley and Laderas del Teno. A little farther on lies the valley formed at the foot of the Benje crater, with Mount Teide in the background.
Benje is the warmest subregion, but vineyards are planted at altitudes of up to 1,000 metres, and that makes all the difference. This is why another training system is used here: bush vines, which protect the grapes from sunburn.
Clouds, wind and altitude
Then there is the influence of the clouds and the way they interact with nature.
The clouds appear where the island turns green. Nowhere is the contrast more striking than on top of the mountain ridges. Cloud formations spill just over the ridges, creating spectacular views of this natural phenomenon. The clouds reduce sunlight and increase humidity. They also help determine which grape variety is planted at which altitude.
This phenomenon is typical of Tenerife because its high mountains hold back the clouds and wind. Islands such as Lanzarote do not experience this, apart from one area in the north. The wind moves freely there, resulting in less vegetation and a drier terroir.

Grape varieties and fragmented ownership
The location of each grape variety has also been shaped by history, the different nationalities that passed through the island and their cultural influences. A large proportion of the vineyards are well over 100 years old.
Vineyard ownership is highly fragmented. There are almost as many grape growers as there are planted hectares. This makes purchasing a vineyard a huge undertaking. The land is often divided among members of a single family, requiring separate negotiations that can last for decades.
Viñátigo recently planted 0.2 hectares of pergola-trained vines next to the winery. This plot was owned by 11 different people, and acquiring it took just over 10 years. The same applies to a terrace a few metres away, which belonged to 7 different people. Just to show how complex everything is…
Recovering old vineyards rather than planting new ones
When you ask a winegrower whether they are planting many new vineyards, the answer is very different from what you might expect. There is no real need for new plantings. So many old vineyards have been neglected over recent decades that it makes more sense to recover them. These vineyards have enormous quality potential.
Young vineyards are often plots where the vines are being converted to a different training system.
Many small projects are currently emerging, but they are often abandoned quite quickly once their owners are confronted with the workload compared with the final result.
The wines undergo a short maceration of 7 to 9 days. Pump-overs are limited and gentle, with the sole aim of keeping the cap moist. The focus is not on extraction, but rather on infusion and preserving the fruit.
In general, the wines are less ripe than they used to be, with more immediate appeal, greater subtlety and more elegance.
There is a strong focus on vineyard work and on collecting data from every individual plot.
